I have been using EDIS and have moved to VR input but my squirt (V3) does not see any input from my VR sensor. The sensor is known good as it works with the EDIS module and using an audio pickup (no scope) I can hear the VR signal on the base of q22 but nothing on r44. The board works fine on the stim so I assume that the input circuit must be pretty much functional. I have tried adjusting the two variable resistors from fully counter clockwise to few turns in from that position and it didn't help, not that I would expect it to as these are downstream of q22 anyway. Does anyone have any thoughts on this?
Jon
VR input not working
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Read the manual to see if your question is answered there before posting. If you have questions about MS1/Extra or MS2/Extra or other non-B&G code configuration or tuning, please post them at http://www.msextra.com The full forum rules are here: Forum Rules, be sure to read them all regularly.
Read the manual to see if your question is answered there before posting. If you have questions about MS1/Extra or MS2/Extra or other non-B&G code configuration or tuning, please post them at http://www.msextra.com The full forum rules are here: Forum Rules, be sure to read them all regularly.
Hey Jon -
The R56 and R52 ppots are adjustable over something like 20 turns. I have found that some signals require 10 or more turns to change MS response. I would try again with a methodical approach with one pot at a time and then in steps in combination. If your pots are in backwards (which seems common), it's not a problem, but you'll have to work from the other extreme CW direction.
BTW - you can check your VR voltage during cranking at pins 24 and 26 on the DB37 to verify the wiring. If you're only using a multimeter, then probe with a diode in the MM clip so the VR signal is only single-polarity so you can see it on the meter better.
Hope that helps,
David
The R56 and R52 ppots are adjustable over something like 20 turns. I have found that some signals require 10 or more turns to change MS response. I would try again with a methodical approach with one pot at a time and then in steps in combination. If your pots are in backwards (which seems common), it's not a problem, but you'll have to work from the other extreme CW direction.
BTW - you can check your VR voltage during cranking at pins 24 and 26 on the DB37 to verify the wiring. If you're only using a multimeter, then probe with a diode in the MM clip so the VR signal is only single-polarity so you can see it on the meter better.
Hope that helps,
David
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jonfx4com
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Thanks David,
OK I tried the diode and as best I can measure it I have about 0.2v at cranking speed less the forward voltage of the diode so I estimate 0.7v
I metered the 2 variable resistors to be sure they are correct and I now have 100k in the feedback circuit and a few hundred ohms between the base of Q23 and ground (it never reaches zero when fully wound back) and still no tach signal. I can meter the VR sensor between R45 and ground at around 200 Ohms, the first one I tried was nearer 500 but neither seem able to trigger Q23. I have also dropped R45 and R46 to 2.2K to get more signal at the base of Q23 but that didn't help either. Anyone else have any inspired tips, I'm all out of ideas!
Jon
OK I tried the diode and as best I can measure it I have about 0.2v at cranking speed less the forward voltage of the diode so I estimate 0.7v
I metered the 2 variable resistors to be sure they are correct and I now have 100k in the feedback circuit and a few hundred ohms between the base of Q23 and ground (it never reaches zero when fully wound back) and still no tach signal. I can meter the VR sensor between R45 and ground at around 200 Ohms, the first one I tried was nearer 500 but neither seem able to trigger Q23. I have also dropped R45 and R46 to 2.2K to get more signal at the base of Q23 but that didn't help either. Anyone else have any inspired tips, I'm all out of ideas!
Jon