Natesuly
I am curios how you have this set up. Are you running two vr sensors and
one nub on the flywheel with the pickups 77 degrees apart?
My other question is why are you trying to fire them 77 degrees apart?
I thought an Aprilla was 75 degrees?
us Failure?
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Read the manual to see if your question is answered there before posting. If you have questions about MS1/Extra or MS2/Extra or other non-B&G code configuration or tuning, please post them at http://www.msextra.com The full forum rules are here: Forum Rules, be sure to read them all regularly.
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simplified
- MegaSquirt Newbie
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- Joined: Wed Jan 23, 2008 9:58 am
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simplified
- MegaSquirt Newbie
- Posts: 17
- Joined: Wed Jan 23, 2008 9:58 am
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simplified
- MegaSquirt Newbie
- Posts: 17
- Joined: Wed Jan 23, 2008 9:58 am
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simplified
- MegaSquirt Newbie
- Posts: 17
- Joined: Wed Jan 23, 2008 9:58 am
oldguy,
I am running two LS1 coils, one per cylinder. However, my engine isn't running on microsquirt yet. I'm having serious issues with my rpm signal. My settings for ignition can be seen in this post
http://www.microsquirt.com/viewtopic.php?t=22843
I am running two LS1 coils, one per cylinder. However, my engine isn't running on microsquirt yet. I'm having serious issues with my rpm signal. My settings for ignition can be seen in this post
http://www.microsquirt.com/viewtopic.php?t=22843
I would recommended you look at the shape of the crank signals on the stock ecu and then while connected to microsquirt. If there is any difference, you might be able to share the signal of the stock ecu. Atleast until you can determine the adjustments needed for the crank sensor.
I am having a similar situation, but sharing the signal works for me.
I am running an engine with a 12-0T crank and a single cam sync. I fought with this from August to November trying to get a clean rpm. In November on pressure from others, I swapped the stock ECU back on and setup the dyno to get some components tested.
In my opinion there are two issues going on here, the analog signal conditioning of the crank signal of a 12krpm+ engine and the tremendous rpm variation of our minimal flywheel engines.
As with most teams, things got slow from the end of November until January and then I decided I could avoid the pulse acceptance issues by piggybacking the microsquirt on the stock ECU. This worked and I got a clean rpm to my surprise *even on startup*. I cleaned up the timing, scoped out the stock spark map, and got the engine running roughly. So added the o2 sensor and pulled off the stock ECU. Immediately it stopped working, similar to your issues, intermittent rpm.
So I have been scoping out cam and crank signals, trying to understand what conditioning the stock ecu adds. I found the cam sensor (hall effect) had a charge up curve, which was easily overcome with a pull up resistor. The crank signal looks far more similar, but I suspect there is something there I am missing, maybe you too.
I will keep this updated, but any adjustments you make to your crank conditioning, might be helpful for all of us.
here is the diagram of your sensor:
http://www.af1racing.com/store/prodimag ... _57-65.jpg
and mine:
http://parts.yamaha-motor.com/partimage ... =87504,2,0
These
I am having a similar situation, but sharing the signal works for me.
I am running an engine with a 12-0T crank and a single cam sync. I fought with this from August to November trying to get a clean rpm. In November on pressure from others, I swapped the stock ECU back on and setup the dyno to get some components tested.
In my opinion there are two issues going on here, the analog signal conditioning of the crank signal of a 12krpm+ engine and the tremendous rpm variation of our minimal flywheel engines.
As with most teams, things got slow from the end of November until January and then I decided I could avoid the pulse acceptance issues by piggybacking the microsquirt on the stock ECU. This worked and I got a clean rpm to my surprise *even on startup*. I cleaned up the timing, scoped out the stock spark map, and got the engine running roughly. So added the o2 sensor and pulled off the stock ECU. Immediately it stopped working, similar to your issues, intermittent rpm.
So I have been scoping out cam and crank signals, trying to understand what conditioning the stock ecu adds. I found the cam sensor (hall effect) had a charge up curve, which was easily overcome with a pull up resistor. The crank signal looks far more similar, but I suspect there is something there I am missing, maybe you too.
I will keep this updated, but any adjustments you make to your crank conditioning, might be helpful for all of us.
here is the diagram of your sensor:
http://www.af1racing.com/store/prodimag ... _57-65.jpg
and mine:
http://parts.yamaha-motor.com/partimage ... =87504,2,0
These
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simplified
- MegaSquirt Newbie
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Bruce Bowling
- Site Admin
- Posts: 285
- Joined: Mon Feb 16, 2004 4:25 pm
- Location: Baltimore, MD
To help facilitate and to get me back on square with your current setup, can you post your VR setup, as you have it right now, and what you have tried to get the VR working. Do you have any RPM, inconsistent RPM. RPM that drops to zero, or breakup at higher revs?simplified wrote:Geoff,
What sort of experiments could I try with the microsquirt to get a clean rpm? A pullup resistor? I'm just running out of time to try and get this microsquirt working.
- Bruce