hi people....
right it looks like i am going to be able to use a rolling road setup at a local garage.
But if i do can anyone tell me what the best way is to map the ve table ign etc etc on the rollers.
i.e. start off with very little drag and slowly increase revs up checking o2 and immisions..
now then .. just a quick one..... on tickover it runs lovely and smooth with about 2.1% co2 coming out the back, so thats quite good i think and about .7 to .8 volts on the lambda sensor.
now then if this thing is on the rollers yeah.. and lets say its at 3000 rpm with about 20% drag on the rollers thats if it can be set ? i hope it can.
does any1 know much about rolling roads and what you can and cant do with them.and if the immisions are still at 2.1% and lambda is .7 to .8.. is this ok ????
and until eventualy at 6000 rpm with full boost the readings be the same ish ??
it's just if anyone has done this on a rolling road , can they give me some advice on how to do it please.
ohhh and has any one got a good link for a wide band lambda sensor setup kit etc, and if i was to go wide band, will this make tuning a lot better and eisier for a newbie like me.
i will also attatch a data log of a quick drive up the street and if anyone can have a look and see if everything looks ok. To me i think theres something weired going on with the o2 readings as it dosent seem quite steady as what i would have expected.
PLEASE PLEASE can someone give me some feedback on this post as i had absolutly no joy with my last one..
thanx millions and millions.
davey
rolling road tuning. how to do it ??
Forum rules
Forum rules
Read the manual to see if your question is answered there before posting. If you have questions about MS1/Extra or MS2/Extra or other non-B&G code configuration or tuning, please post them at http://www.msextra.com The full forum rules are here: Forum Rules, be sure to read them all regularly.
Forum rules
Read the manual to see if your question is answered there before posting. If you have questions about MS1/Extra or MS2/Extra or other non-B&G code configuration or tuning, please post them at http://www.msextra.com The full forum rules are here: Forum Rules, be sure to read them all regularly.
How the dyno works
A good dyno is designed to increase resistance in order to keep the drum turning at a constant speed. The amount the dyno has to "fight" your car's engine determines the power output that your engine is making.
So initially, you can set the dyno to hold at a given engine RPM that matches one of your RPM bins on the ve table.
You can then use the throttle to get the MAP reading near one of your MAP bins, and then tune the ve value up or down to get your mixture right. Then move the throttle to reach the next MAP level for the RPM that the dyno is holding.
Once you've done all the bins for that RPM, move to a new RPM and repeat.
So initially, you can set the dyno to hold at a given engine RPM that matches one of your RPM bins on the ve table.
You can then use the throttle to get the MAP reading near one of your MAP bins, and then tune the ve value up or down to get your mixture right. Then move the throttle to reach the next MAP level for the RPM that the dyno is holding.
Once you've done all the bins for that RPM, move to a new RPM and repeat.
Beware of your temperatures. I now do ALL of my EMS tuning at a place in Boulder that has a 35 mph fan setup in a closed booth where I don't have to put up with the fumes. It's poetry in motion! You can cool of the coolant AND intercooler in a minute or two! The place is called Super Rupair.
Once you get better at it, you can use the dyno's snapshot feature, where you set it at (let's say) 3500 RPM and 20 psi of boost. You then take a snapshot. You back off, adjust your values for AFR, run it up, do the snapshot to verify AFR, then start advancing timing each snapshot by 2 degrees until you hit MBT or detonation.
If you become detonation prone, then it's worthwhile to do runs to repeat actual use. Good load-holders can do this very well.
MBT timing is very important to know here! If you simply tune for detonation, you will wind up with an engine that is seeing WAY too much wear!
Use of the right dyno is important. Accelerometers are NOT dynos! You have to have a load-bearing dyno or you will only guess at the off-boost ignition and injection timing values.
My favorite dynos:
-Dyno Dynamics
-Dynapack
My least favorite ones:
-Dynojet (with or without load control)
-Mustang
Once you get better at it, you can use the dyno's snapshot feature, where you set it at (let's say) 3500 RPM and 20 psi of boost. You then take a snapshot. You back off, adjust your values for AFR, run it up, do the snapshot to verify AFR, then start advancing timing each snapshot by 2 degrees until you hit MBT or detonation.
If you become detonation prone, then it's worthwhile to do runs to repeat actual use. Good load-holders can do this very well.
MBT timing is very important to know here! If you simply tune for detonation, you will wind up with an engine that is seeing WAY too much wear!
Use of the right dyno is important. Accelerometers are NOT dynos! You have to have a load-bearing dyno or you will only guess at the off-boost ignition and injection timing values.
My favorite dynos:
-Dyno Dynamics
-Dynapack
My least favorite ones:
-Dynojet (with or without load control)
-Mustang
-
casper002
- MegaSquirt Newbie
- Posts: 17
- Joined: Fri Nov 04, 2005 11:58 am
- Location: north east of the UK
Thanx lads.. anything is worth a go at the moment.
but just last night i had a funny feeling the clutch was sliping..
i got onto a local road where i live and gave it some with the boost at 18 psi...
yeee haaaa did it go... but it was either the wheels spinning a bit or clutch slip, it was just so hard to tell.. mind the roads were slightly wet and i was in 3rd so there is a good possibility it was wheel spin.
as soon as i get it on the rollers i will keep you lot updated
fingers crossed
cheers
davey
but just last night i had a funny feeling the clutch was sliping..
i got onto a local road where i live and gave it some with the boost at 18 psi...
yeee haaaa did it go... but it was either the wheels spinning a bit or clutch slip, it was just so hard to tell.. mind the roads were slightly wet and i was in 3rd so there is a good possibility it was wheel spin.
as soon as i get it on the rollers i will keep you lot updated
fingers crossed
cheers
davey
Two easy ways to tell if the clutch is slipping:
-Use the brake at the same time, and at peak torque in high gear, vary the engine load and maintain the same vehicle speed. Watch for RPM changes independant on vehicle speed changes.
-Take it for a spirited drive! Stop right after driving it hard and pull over. With the engine idling, pop the hood and smell for the characteristic burned clutch odor. It should fill the engine bay!
-Use the brake at the same time, and at peak torque in high gear, vary the engine load and maintain the same vehicle speed. Watch for RPM changes independant on vehicle speed changes.
-Take it for a spirited drive! Stop right after driving it hard and pull over. With the engine idling, pop the hood and smell for the characteristic burned clutch odor. It should fill the engine bay!