MicroSquirt.com read only forum (Jan.15,2018)

On Sunday a tired 117k mile 2.8 liter`inline six came out and
a rebuilt 2.8 liter turbo inline six went in my 1976 280Z.

I spent Monday installing the intercooler and piping, finishing the
wiring and preparing for the first start. I discovered that I did not
have the correct thermostat cover, so no first start attempt.

On Tuesday I did the yard crawl at to find a 79-83 Datsun, despite
the yard claiming they had no 280s in stock, but as luck would have
they had two. One thermostat cover was so corroded that I could
have crushed it in one hand, but the second was like new.

After installing the thermostat cover and adding fluids on Wednesday,
I tried the first start. Sadly no luck. I suspected a timing issue, since
I was using a distributor CAS wheel designed by DIY Auto Tune that was
only documented using the extra firmware. Turns out that it was part
of my issue, but misunderstanding the injection timing angle was
the major issue.

Once that was figured out I had it running fairly quick. I still have no
exhaust, and it is pig rich at idle, and my TPS refuses to hold a calibration.
but it runs, and to be honest I think I am ahead of schedule.

The amount of documention available is overwhelming, but allowed
me to plan the install in advance and have a step by step wiring
guide laid out before I started. That made the wiring the least
stressful part of the install. The intercooler, related piping and
exhaust are more worring due to available tools and welding
skills(nope, none).

I want to thank everyone who has made it possible for a novice
to get this far this fast.

Dan_Austin,

Congratulations - that's cool!

Lance.

It took longer than expected to get access to a friends welder, but I finally had
a chance weld up my 3" mandrel bent exhaust on Saturday. My friend was not
happy with his welds on my test scraps, so he gave me a couple of tips and
had me try. Turns out I have a knack for it and ended up welding up my entire
exhaust systems as my first welding project.

Once the exhaust was in, I could install the wideband and start tuning. I missed
the third place in TunerrStudio that required wideband setup, but a quick Google
search identified the fix and I now have the tune started, I took is out for a couple
trips around the block.

On the second loop I noticed copious whtie/grey smoke out the exhaust and almost
paniced, but then I remembered noticing an excess of protective oil coating the
mandrel bends. By the third loop of the 1/10th mile loop the smoke was gone
and the VE Live Analyze was doing it's thing. I went over to show the result to
my friend who had helped me with the engine swap and welding, He was surprised
I had it moving on under power so soon and appearing ready for daily use.

The exhaust tucks up nicely, but I do need another hanger just infront of the diff
crossmember to have a really clean install. The downpipe did need dimpling to clear the
firewall and bellhousing, but only a minor bit.

Build recap-

F54 block with fresh, but stock dished pistons
P79 Head
Shaved N42 intake with 240SX TB
DIYAutoTune 280ZX CAS wheel
ebay intercooler and piping 2.5"
3" mandrel bent exhaust with 3" Magneflow cat
450cc DSM blue top injectors
Pallnet rail
Aeromotive A1000-6 (pita to find fittings for)
ebay 57/63 turbo with v-band integrated wastegate (8lbs)
82 NA 5 speed
Fidanza flywheel, Spec XD pressure plate and HD organic plate
OBX diff with 3.90 gears (needed to make tired old NA motor feel happy)

It has been one heck of a week, or for that matter the last 13 months
while I prepared for the actual swap.

Tuning is going reasonably well. I've been able to drive it to and from
work all week with VEAL running each way (12 miles), and a couple longer
drives on the freeway when traffic dies down so I can focus on holding
a set RPM and throttle position for extended periods.

I made a newbie mistake and had the bottom of my VE table above the
drop on shift, which of course made for some unhappy lean spikes. Since
the middle of the table was coming along nicely I exported the VE table,
dropped the top row and shifted all other rows up to make room for a new
row below my lowest kpa observed over a fairly long datalog session.

The only thing I have not managed to get working is the dash tach. I have
it connected to green 35, but no joy. I saw the tach adapter circuits, and
saw one document suggesting a four pin HEI module could be used instead
of a relay coil/transister circuit, which appeals to me for ease of install and
repair, but I have not found any documentation to confirm that option.

I had a brief moment of hope that the TunerStudio tachout settings were tied
only to the tachout pin, but I found that not to be true and increasing the
duty cyle would cause the car to stall before the tach even registered a blip.
So the settings are back to a 30% duty cycle and I'll see about picking up
a HEI module this weekend to try.

I now have about a full month living with the install. No major
changes have been required. I added a GM EGR solenoid
for a Fidle valve, and while it works it is a tad too small and
only bumps the idle by about 75 RPM cold. I've identified
a replacement with the same wiring connector but larger
flow capacity, and need to get off my duff to go get one.

The tuning has been 90% completed on the daily slog to
and from work using VEAL, with tweaks made to handle
oddball areas, such as engine braking causing very low map
at the middle of the RPM scale.

Today I decided to datalog the drive in as opposed to using
VEAL to fine tune the map. I found that my cruise map is
close to spot on with idle and those engine braking zones
needing a bit of love. The attached zip is the MSQ and 24
minute datalog. EGO correction was minimal, basically only
during engine braking, which I was please to see. The only
other major discovery, which I knew, but is 100% confirmed is
my alternator is not up to running the ECU and e-fans, at least
not at idle. It also does not seem to be doing particularly well
at cruise.


This weekend is the 500 mile post break-in oil and filter
change, with a lash check and 'nothing working loose' check.

Feedback or critiques on the MSQ or log appreciated.
My tune is doing almost exactly what I ask of it, but that I am
asking it to do what is appropriate. I had a minor setback this
week with the car stalling when coming to a stop, and found the
cause to be the timing was about 3 degrees to far advanced at idle.

I now have just over 3 years on this setup with minimal issues-

1. A single blown fuse (under-sized)
2. Stalling when I hit a good sized bump.

The stalling was obviously a wiring issue, but I could not locate any loose
or damaged connections in my harness. My mistake was focusing on the
harness sections I built. I eventually discovered a pin in the TPS pigtail
was not fully seated in its connector pocket, and would push out when
I plugged the connector into the main harness. The TPS was new, and
as mentioned I assumed I had screwed something up...

I have looked a couple times at the MS3-Pro pin-out, thinking to upgrade
and just rework the ECU connector. I then realize that the major benefit is
giving me something to play with, sure there are other things that would
improve, but the Sequencer and latest B&G code do everything I need...