MicroSquirt.com read only forum (Jan.15,2018)

I'm having an issue getting these two to talk nice to each other. ms states under calibrate AFR, that the LC-1 default is 1v =9.7 AFR and 4V =19.7 AFR, so I went into my LC-1 and programmed output 2 (WB analog 2 out) and duplicated these settings, then program the LC-1, but they just don't work correctly, I am seeing Lambda numbers on the AFR, not sure what that's about either. I did select AFR outputs on the #2 analog out of the LC-1. I have also tried the Innovate 0-5v wideband and even the Generic WB settings, Iv'e tried (1-2v), (.5-1.5v), I have also defaulted the LC-1 settings and tried entering those into the Generic WB under Calib, AFR, just not gettting it and am unsure what I'm not doing correctly, I'm using the brown output wire as my signal into the ms, any suggestions?

The LC-1 default is actually 0 volts at 7.35:1 and 5 volts at 22.05:1; the values in the grayed out boxes are ignored when you use a pre-set calibration.

Matt,

I imputed those numbers directly out of the LC-1 manual last night, into the LC-1 controller and entered them as a Generic WB in Megatune, I also tried all of the Innovate settings under calib AFR.... I got desperate and reloaded firmware and defaulted the LC-1 values and the re-programmed, then started with a new project in Megatune and re-entered all data by hand, duplicating all of the forementioned. The battery is fully charged and I monitored it during the whole process to ensure there were no errors, it didn't get below 12.5V, still needing some help, Thank you, Paul

Just how far off are the numbers you're seeing?

Matt,

Standby, I think I may actually have a Battery issue after all. The current drops out quickly even after charging. Yesterday I had charged the Battery and then only powered it on to flash the LC-1 and set the output on Analog 2. After that I opened Logworks to communicate with the sensor to see that it was working properly, it started working and then stated error 9, I checked the voltage and sure enough after only a few minutes it was around 12.5v. I rev'd the bike for a minute and it started displaying an AFR of around (12.0) . I'm going to try and aquire one of those new sealed Glass Pack Batteries, with a 22.5Ah draw (that's a +4.5 Ah over the stock battery), could you at least tell me for now what the Heater draw current is? I'm trying to ensure I have a balanced system when this is done before proceding. Appreciate your help, thanks again, Paul

ZGRX1000 wrote:Could you at least tell me for now what the Heater draw current is? I'm trying to ensure I have a balanced system when this is done before proceding. Appreciate your help, thanks again, Paul

Innovate's recommended fuse size is 5 amps, so it should be a little bit lower than that, but I'd plan on 5 amps when spec'ing the parts out.

Matt,

What Iv'e come to realize is that it's not possible to have a motorcycle battery power the LC-1 wideband system. The biggest motorcycle battery is only capable of 20Ah (unlike a big car or truck battery), the LC-1 is 1/4 of that capacity, plus a fuel pump, injectors and ECU equal a quick battery drain. The fact is, I can't run the LC-1 on a motorcycle battery system because the heater on the Bosch WBO2 pulls too many amps. This would have been nice to know before spending the additional $300 on the system and replacing the battery with a newer High capacity Gel battery for another $150.... Perhaps there should be a note on the site at DIY or on the ms forum or even in the ms directions about this, so others don't get into this same situation. My bike works fine without it after setting the AFR on the Dyno and tuning......

Just a little thought, narrowband sensors of old used exhaust heat to power themselves up, and AFAIK the heaters were added to improve cold start performance as emissions got stricter. The heaters on WBO2 systems I thought were still only used at start up, and they switched off once up to temperature, so is it possible you need to move the WBO2 sensor closer to the exhaust heat?

24C,

unfortunately the WBO2 can't be moved closer in the exhaust and is not far downstream. It's about 30" after the exhaust port and just 1" behind the output of the collector. This section is just behind my feet on the pegs and this is a 2-2-1 system and not a 4-1 system. If I moved it foward, it would require a second O2 sensor to be installed and that would be twice as much Amp load on the system.... Perhaps it's something else. Here's what I did, got a new Gel battery rated at 20Ah, the stock battery was rated at 18Ah. I trickle charged it to 14.5 volts, I turned on the system, I started the bike and then immediately went into Logworks3, in there is said error9, low voltage, I checked the voltage and it was now 12.5. I rev'd the bike a little and it would go in and out of heater calib and error 9.... with this system disconnected and the WBO2 removed, the system works fine and the battery charges to a full 14.5 vots.... Am I missing something in this process??? (honestly, I'm asking a sincere question) it would be nice to have made an installation mistake and to resolve it, than to have planned for something and not be able to use it... Thanks for your input, Paul

This isn't so much a battery issue as an alternator issue - you're drawing so much current that your battery is being drawn down. What is your alternator rating?

Do you have your lights on? If this is driveway baseline testing, perhaps pull the fuses on your headlights - that's 50-60W right there!

There's a fellow named msiddalingaiah who's been doing some pretty neat things with PWM regulation and control of the fuel pump, saving quite a bit of power.