MicroSquirt.com read only forum (Jan.15,2018)

I'm in the process of planning an EFI and ignition mod on my 2007 KLR 650. I plan on using a LTR 450 (Quad) throttle body that I purchased on Ebay. It has a 42 mm throat and it looks like it will mount extactly where the carb (40 mm) was. The TB came with injector, MAP, and throttle position sensors.
I'm looking now for a fuel pump. I've seen reference online to the Delphi T-11 which is supposedly designed for small engine applications. Does anyone know if it actually exists in the real world and, if so, where one could be purchased?
On the ignition side the KLR has fixed timing and the ICM gets its signal from a VR sensor mounted near the stator. I don't know what it reads. Can I use this signal to fire the Microsquirt and how do I find out? Will I also need a cam sensor?

I'll appreciate all the help I can get on this project (and I'll need a lot

ww

Fuel pump - go back to Ebay and get the 2006 LTR450 fuel pump that's on there right now!

Ignition - you'll have to take a look at your rotor and investigate some things. How many teeth, how they're spaced, etc, any long teeth, what angle some particular tooth is relative to TDC - things like that...

dontz125: I don't think my sensor is reading teeth but I'll look into it closer. I'm 'watching' that very fuel pump although the Ltr 450 fuel pumps have been known to have some reliability problems

ww

wrongwind wrote:I'm in the process of planning an EFI and ignition mod on my 2007 KLR 650. I plan on using a LTR 450 (Quad) throttle body that I purchased on Ebay. It has a 42 mm throat and it looks like it will mount extactly where the carb (40 mm) was. The TB came with injector, MAP, and throttle position sensors.
I'm looking now for a fuel pump. I've seen reference online to the Delphi T-11 which is supposedly designed for small engine applications. Does anyone know if it actually exists in the real world and, if so, where one could be purchased?
On the ignition side the KLR has fixed timing and the ICM gets its signal from a VR sensor mounted near the stator. I don't know what it reads. Can I use this signal to fire the Microsquirt and how do I find out? Will I also need a cam sensor?

I'll appreciate all the help I can get on this project (and I'll need a lot

ww

You are going through some things that I've already experienced... never did find a source for the T-11. Tried a Camry FP but the current draw is way too high for our DualSport machines. I've been working on a DR650 FI project for awhile now. You can read my follies over on the Thumpertalk DR forum. Here: http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showth ... p?t=857903

If the KLR is anything like the DR650 you'll likely have a short tooth and a long tooth on the rotor. Puts the kibosh to using the stock VR unless you want to mess with removing the stock teeth and pressing a toothed ring on in it's place. I decided to leave the stock VR functioning and I machined a 36-0 toothed crank wheel out of the extra flywheel weight added to the rotor by Suzuki... I'm using a hall sensor instead of a VR. I'm also using a one tooth cam hall sensor for sequential. I'm getting close to the start-it-up stage on ignition (doing that first) but I need to build one of Bruce's Hall Sensor Offsetter Circuits. Without that I'm getting a blank stare from my tach signal. Anyway, check out my thread over on TT. You might pick up on some very good things to avoid doing.

Mxrob: I checked out the thumper link and it appears you've worked through almost everything I'll need to do. I looked at all the pics I could find and it does appear the KLR650 pickup coil senses lands on the rotor I need to understand it all a little better but I'll probably just follow all your steps. My TB is, of course, exactly like yours. I don't quite understand what you did with the injectors but I'll work it out. I'm not a machinist so my implementation will undoubted be more haphazard than yours.

Even better, I'm in the early stages of planning a custom road bike using an EFI, turbo charged DLR 800 engine so everything you've done will be directly applicable.
I didn't see any discussion of a 'bike down' sensor but we'll both need one.

Thanks again. I'll have a lot more questions latter. Oh yeah I emailed Delphi and they confirmed that the T-11pump is just a pipe dream.

ww

From all the pictures I can find of KLR650 rotors I'm only seeing one tooth. If that is the case then you can use the VR and existing tooth for a wasted spark set-up. The issue will be timing at lower RPM.... since the Microsquirt has to figure out where the rotor is based on the last time it saw a tooth, in this case 360 degrees ago, timing can be quite a ways off at lower engine speeds in acceleration/deceleration. I think this would be a real issue on a large thumper like ours... and is the reason I went with the 36 tooth crank wheel and 1 tooth cam wheel for sequential. I'm not just interested in the fuel part like so many seem to be... the 3D ignition mapping and MAP timing control have my tuning glads salivating.

MXrob:
My KLR 650 is actually a big head 705 with the carb tuned to the max and it runs beautifully. The only reason I'm thinking MSquirt is because it's a farkle I don't have. Accordingly it makes no sense to go fuel only. All or nothing is my motto.
My other motto is, 'The smartest people copy smart prople', so I'm going to reproduce what you've already done as much as possible I need to get a late model rotor. The pictures look like it has a lip on the back much like the DR. If so I'll have a machine shop cut in teeth. Otherwise I'll figure out how to get a ring on there. The cam sensor will be tougher because the cam sprockets on the KLR have center bolts so I could upgrade to a hot cam (two bolts like yours) or put something on the existing sprocket for the sensor to read.
Everthing I've seen and measured makes it appear that the LTR TB will fit right in without any manifold mods whatsoever and if the injector works on your bike it'll work on mine. I'd like to have a MAF along with the MAP so I'll be thinking about that and, in a previous mod, I had an oxy bung welded into my header so I'm pretty well set. Where are you planning on getting manifold air temp?

ww

Whoops! I got a look at a 2007 rotor and, except for one land (tooth) it's smooth as a baby's butt.
I could press a ring on and weld it or , the 2008 and up rotors appear to have a ridge around the middle that might be machinable if that rotor will fit on my bike. The basic engine is the same so it should.

ww

wrongwind wrote:MXrob:
My KLR 650 is actually a big head 705 with the carb tuned to the max and it runs beautifully. The only reason I'm thinking MSquirt is because it's a farkle I don't have. Accordingly it makes no sense to go fuel only. All or nothing is my motto.
My other motto is, 'The smartest people copy smart prople', so I'm going to reproduce what you've already done as much as possible I need to get a late model rotor. The pictures look like it has a lip on the back much like the DR. If so I'll have a machine shop cut in teeth. Otherwise I'll figure out how to get a ring on there. The cam sensor will be tougher because the cam sprockets on the KLR have center bolts so I could upgrade to a hot cam (two bolts like yours) or put something on the existing sprocket for the sensor to read.
Everthing I've seen and measured makes it appear that the LTR TB will fit right in without any manifold mods whatsoever and if the injector works on your bike it'll work on mine. I'd like to have a MAF along with the MAP so I'll be thinking about that and, in a previous mod, I had an oxy bung welded into my header so I'm pretty well set. Where are you planning on getting manifold air temp?

ww

Yeah, I'm running a FCR-MX on my DR650. I've set up tons of them for the big DR's.
http://docs.google.com/present/edit?id= ... pjbQ&hl=en
Runs fantastic but it just ain't FI.

The IAT sensor just needs to go in your air box in the incoming air draft. MAT isn't really required on a naturally aspirated engine.

MXRob: I've been riding this summer and cogitating on what I need to do for this project. I bought a good rotor off ebay. I've already got the TB with all the sensors. I haven't decided on a pump yet but I'm leaning toward a Harley pump. They're simple, in tank pumps with integral pressure regulator. They're also not built integrally with the through tank fittings so I could fabricate my own. I see on your thumper forum you finally ended up with a missing tooth set-up on the rotor/flywheel. I could press one onto the rotor I bought but it occurs to me? Couldn't I take a tooth off the cam sprocket and use that for everything? RPM's are just twice whatever the cam sprocket is . I'm sure the Microsquirt can multipy? What are the drawbacks to that approach?

ww