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hallsender og pullup resistance
Posted: Mon Aug 28, 2006 12:12 am
by Housey
Well.. i don't get any feedback from my hallsender, so my guess is that i need a pullup resistor..
what i don't know, even though i've read the manual, is WHERE this resistor goes..
Resistor i'm using is a 1.0k ohm 1/4w
tried to soldier one on the signal cable from the hallsender, and that didn't give me any luck, unfortunatly!
I've done all the other mods that the manual sais, by jumping to JS10 etc (can't remember that now because my unit is at home and i'm at work)
Everything looks good when i power up the MS in my car, but no signal from hallsender, ergo no spark..
Help is much appreciated!
System: MS2 v3
Regards
Dan
Posted: Thu Aug 31, 2006 11:51 am
by Housey
even with a pullup i get no signal from my hall sensor..
hopefully i've done it right?
heres how it is now:
Signal from hall to pin #36 on the DB37cable (routed around the relayboard)
Ground to tps ground
12v from injector positive
And since i don't have any signal, i don't have any spark!
anyhow.. does MT give you a warning message when you burn anything to the processor? because mine don't, so i don't know if it has been written or not
Posted: Thu Aug 31, 2006 3:42 pm
by nismoryco
Pin 36 is used to drive the ignition coil not the tach input. The hall sender should be connected to pin 26.
Posted: Thu Aug 31, 2006 11:52 pm
by Housey
ah. sorry.. wrote wrong there!
hallsignal is to tach on the relayboard
and pin 36 goes to coil negative
Posted: Sat Sep 02, 2006 12:02 am
by g60peru
First you have to find out whether your hall sender shorts the signal terminal to the negative (ground) or to the positive terminal. You can test this easily with a multitester. If it shorts to ground, install a pullup resistor (1k ohm is ok) from the signal terminal to the positive terminal. If it shorts to the positive terminal install a pulldown resistor between the signal and the negative terminals.
You should get a nice square wave now. It's also recommended to use the 5 V supply from the MS2 (TPS Vref) to power the hall sender because it's a filtered, regulated voltage, unlike taking 12 V directly from the injectors. You'll get a cleaner signal.
Eduardo
Posted: Sat Sep 02, 2006 10:42 am
by Housey
Thanks!
as far as i know, its supposed to use 12v..
the car in question is a VW Golf 2 GTi 16v KR ..
original bosh dizzy
Posted: Sun Sep 03, 2006 2:36 am
by Housey
I've got the box infront of me now! so here are the mods i've done:
Jumpered R43
Jumpered D1 and D2
Jumpered IGBTout to IGN
Jumpered OPTOOUT to TSEL
Jumpered IGBTin to JS10(ign)
Jumpered TACHSELECT to OPTOin
Jumpered XG1 to XG2
Pullup resistor (1k ohm 1/2 - Brown, blue, red and gold) between S12 to the middle of the IGBTout and IGN
Hopefully this is right?
MS2 V3
Posted: Sun Sep 03, 2006 8:18 am
by Housey
Here's some photos of the V3 board with the mods!
http://vw-gfx.com/media/thumbnails.php?album=7
Posted: Sun Sep 03, 2006 9:29 am
by jsmcortina
Housey wrote:
Jumpered TACHSELECT to OPTOin
Jumpered XG1 to XG2
Pullup resistor (1k ohm 1/2 - Brown, blue, red and gold) between S12 to the middle of the IGBTout and IGN
If you are trying to use the pullup resistor to help with the hall sensor then that is the wrong place. You have added a pullup resistor on the coil output.
Try putting a 1k resistor between TACHSELECT and S12, leaving the TACHSELECT-OPTOIN jumper as it is.
James
Posted: Sun Sep 03, 2006 9:34 am
by Housey
hmm.. the manual didn't tell me that..
anyhow, is the direction on the resistor important? or does it work either way?