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Building your own fuel rail
Posted: Sun Jul 16, 2006 1:59 pm
by sidy
G'Day all,
I am looking for some guidance from the group on this questions.. Is
it realistic to construct my own fuel rails (for 4 cyclinder
motorcycles) from soldered coper tubing or is it better to buy an
aftermarket assembly?
Sid Young
--
Visit Sid's
"Classic Japanese Motorcycle Restoration Site"
http://z900.piczo.com/
Posted by email.
Posted: Sun Jul 16, 2006 4:01 pm
by jakobsladderz
I would avoid lead solder (tends to fatigue) but bronze or silver solder should be OK. That said, I have a friend who used copper tubing for water pipes on his turbo and they fatigued and broke (after only a couple of months use so unlikely to be corrosion related) resulting in a blown engine (failure occured on racetrack and the vital sign changes were missed). If this were fuel rail, there would have been fuel spraying everywhere.
I guess I'm saying that steel tubing may be a better bet to avoid the chance of fatigue cracks and subsequent fuel leakage.
Duncan
Posted: Sun Jul 16, 2006 4:34 pm
by PSIG
There are many brass, copper and steel soldered and brazed factory setups out there - mostly steel. The difference is that they are fully supported so the tubing does not get stressed and work-hardened by vibration. Generally copper is avoided for this reason, although I have seen racing setups using it in short supported T sections. They were bright (nickel or chrome) plated for corrosion resistance.
Steel tubing can be had in a nearly perfect I.D. for injectors and be brazed as many factory rails are. I have scavenged injector cups from brazed OEM rails like this. Once again the brazing is fatigue prone so support it - and the brazing itself makes the steel more brittle over time to a limited degree. This is why aircraft manufacturers no longer assemble steel fuselage sections with brazing.
It's a balance of your skills and your wallet.
David
Posted: Mon Jul 17, 2006 12:12 am
by mitsuko
My first fuel rail was made of brass bungs , copper tube and silver solder .
It's been used for abt a year , then I changed it for an extruded aluminium one .
Not because it failed or leaked , but because it didn't look nice .
There must be some pictures of it in the succes stories .
As long as it's decently secured to the engine block , there's no problem .
Pat
Posted: Mon Jul 17, 2006 4:29 am
by jsmcortina
Mine are sections of steel tube brazed together. However the aluminium extrusions will be easier to work with and look prettier afterwards.
James
Posted: Mon Jul 17, 2006 8:24 am
by TT350chevelle
Square steel tubing, 1/2 compression fittings and braze 380.Easy,clean and cheap.Heres the only pic I have of my fuel rails.
http://public.fotki.com/tt350chevelle/6 ... 10002.html
Brad J.
Building your own fuel rail
Posted: Mon Jul 17, 2006 10:20 pm
by sidy
Aluminium... Now thats a good thought!
I can anodise it red so it looks fast also ;)
Sid
PS - Hadn't thought of Aluminium, real asy to work with and easy to
get and to machine any unique fittings...Thanks James
On 7/17/06, jsmcortina <
jsm@jsm-net.demon.co.uk> wrote:
>
>
>
> Mine are sections of steel tube brazed together. However the aluminium
> extrusions will be easier to work with and look prettier afterwards.
>
> James
>
>
> ________________________________
>
> My Success story
http://www.msefi.com/viewtopic.php?t=8008
> MS1/Extra at:
http://megasquirt.sourceforge.net/extra
>
>
> This post is at:
>
http://www.msefi.com/viewtopic.php?p=130963#130963
>
>
--
Visit Sid's
"Classic Japanese Motorcycle Restoration Site"
http://z900.piczo.com/
Posted by email.
Posted: Tue Jul 18, 2006 8:55 am
by Bow
You might want to check this out:
http://sdsefi.com/techrail.htm
Posted: Tue Jul 18, 2006 6:52 pm
by garrymc
Posted: Wed Jul 19, 2006 7:42 am
by TT350chevelle
garrymc wrote:
What is 'braze 380' ?
Here's the link to Braze 380 pdf file.
http://www.lucasmilhaupt.com/assets/bra ... /BR380.pdf
and another link with info on a number of brazing products.
http://www.lucasmilhaupt.com/htmdocs/br ... _free.html
Brad J.