MicroSquirt.com read only forum (Jan.15,2018)

24c Your right I was getting a bit pissed but I opened the throttle fully to try and get the crank spinning at a constant speed and therefore synch quickly so I could see what the other parameters were doing. Matt I get an almighty back fire now and again through the exhaust which I thought was the dwell landing on the desired setting and then firing the plugs (with loads of unburned fuel in the cylinders). I am only running spark at the moment so I haven't actually looked at or touched the fuel settings other than the basic things like number of cylinders etc. I have taken great care to run the VR wires as afar away as possible from the ignition side of things like coils etc. MSQ attached.
Thanks guys.

A bit quiet round here these days, anyway I've had a few developments which may help someone. I carefully measured the teeth on my trigger wheel
and compared that to the pick up and found that there was a fair difference in sizing so I bought a trigger wheel from a ZX9R C1 which is a perfect match to the original pick up, it also has a 24/2 tooth setup which ,compared to my original 36/1, might solve my problem of not revving out to the redline by not generating the same amount of Volts. So I machined the carrier up and fitted the new wheel and after doing some more research decided to fit the wheel with 90deg offset so the crank is spinning at a constant speed when the missing tooth passes the pick up. And at long last she is starting on the button every time without a hint of kickback
It's a bit cold and wet now so a proper test ride to check if she rev's out will have to wait but I'm quietly confident that it will go well, here's hoping.

Well its been a month of high's and low's. I managed to get out when the sun came out and lo and behold she ran perfectly, revving right up to 12250rpm clean as a whistle, so it turns out that my trigger wheel teeth weren't a good match to VR sensor size wise, also my new trigger wheel has only 24/2 teeth(instead of 36/1) so this seems a good combination however, while trying to establish communication with my phone via the Bluetooth transmitter she wouldn't start, not even a cough. So I checked for spark and it appears that the Ign outputs are dead! I borrowed my brothers controller which is brand new and unused and after loading up the engine started, and with a bit of tuning(its running the latest firmware) was starting on the button again BUT I'm back to square one with the rev's, she only rev's to 6400rpm now. I'm sure it must be a noise filter setting as I haven't changed anything mechanical.
I'm hoping someone can answer these questions though, with the old firmware I wired the Ign out A&B to a Bosch 211 Igniter splitting the two channels into the igniter (1&4 2&3) which then runs 4 COP wasted spark, but in the latest manual it says use the ALED & WLED outputs to run another 2 channels, is this strictly necessary with the latest firmware or can I leave the wiring as is? I'm worried about damaging another controller.
Also has anyone else experienced Ign failure?
Thanks.

Just looking through the manuals again and came across the mod to change from coil driver to logic level output however the photo's don't appear for some reason. Does anyone have a link or a photo of where to physically put the jumper wires? I'm running the 2.x.x firmware.
Thanks.

Remind me, please - which uS version is this?

I'm running the version 2 (or I was) I have spent the best part of 2 years struggling with this so I have taken off the MS and fitted a Dyna ignition system just so I can enjoy riding the bike through summer again as I was not enjoying working on it any more. So I have 2 options now, either fit the injection and trigger off of the Dyna system or try the toothed wheel again. I'm thinking that first option might be the best as its running really well at the moment and don't think I really need to control ignition just yet.
dontz125 do you have any ideas?