The MegaSquirt Project has experienced explosive growth other the years, with hundreds of new MS installations occurring every week - a phenomenal success! MegaSquirt has been successfully used in all aspects of Internal Combustion engine applications including R&D, Industry, Race, and Research. The MS project has transformed itself from a simple R&D project into a full-featured mature engine control system. To reflect this the support structure has also changed to meet the needs of MegaSquirt Users.
Moving forward, the R&D forums for MegaSquirt project are in a read-only mode - no new forum posts are accepted.
However the forums will remain available for view, they still contain a wealth of information on how MegaSquirt works, how it is installed and used. Feel free to search the forums for information, facts, and overview.While the R&D forum traffic has slowed in recent years, this is not at all a reflection of Megasquirt users, which continue to grow year after year. What has changed is that the method of MegaSquirt support today has rapidly moved to Facebook, this is where the vast majority of interaction is happening now. For those not on Facebook the msextra forums is another place for product support. Finally, for product selection assistance, all of the MegaSquirt vendors are there to help you select a system, along with all of the required pieces to make it complete.
Forum for discussing how to install MicroSquirt(TM), choose and troubleshoot sensors, wiring, and communications for MicroSquirt (TM) and MicroSquirt Module(TM).
Forum rules
Read the manual to see if your question is answered there before posting. If you have questions about MS1/Extra or MS2/Extra or other non-B&G code configuration or tuning, please post them at http://www.msextra.com The full forum rules are here: Forum Rules, be sure to read them all regularly.
hows it going. I finally drove my 1986 Montero with turbo and micro today. it ran decent till my electric fan came on .. engine died and would not restart. Im running a hall sensor from DIY , its pretty close to alternator. im going to try shielding it some more tomarrow.. it lost rpm signal , I thought I lost sensor , sync , and or burned my ecm. I ran test on sensor and its putting out 9.6 volts while turning crank over tooth . my battery voltage was 12.6. does hall sensor show same voltage that is being supplied to sensor. I may have a weak ground path. im gona verify my grounds tomarrow. also wondering if my old alternator is putting out enough amps to run my electronics . Im just fishing for info, trying to get my project reliable so I can drive it to my new place. don't want to have to tow it you know... lol. any ideas will be great thanks. My jeep restarted after it sat for a bit, not sure if it reset or what. here is my last msq.. thanks again.
Hey Matt , I have separate power and ground to hall sensor . swithed 12v and block ground, and signal going to vr pos. Though I noticed when I checked sensor signal on my test its putting out 9.6 volts and supplied volts was 12.6. im gona work on pimping out the grounds today. Maybe voltage drop on ground side?? Thanks ...
I had another thought. My missing tooth gap is real close to sensor . it just about touches first tooth at tdc. I have not set up , or calibrated the timing . the auto trigger function. im close at around 10 deg. I should pimp out the timing right. Im going to add a wasted spark soon, so I should do it now right... I need to use a timing light to match up right?? thanks
Hey Matt . Yes I have neg on vr taped off. Question , hall gap is best around 1mm? I have it at .5mm . I will move it. I've read too close is bad as well as too far.