The MegaSquirt Project has experienced explosive growth other the years, with hundreds of new MS installations occurring every week - a phenomenal success! MegaSquirt has been successfully used in all aspects of Internal Combustion engine applications including R&D, Industry, Race, and Research. The MS project has transformed itself from a simple R&D project into a full-featured mature engine control system. To reflect this the support structure has also changed to meet the needs of MegaSquirt Users.
Moving forward, the R&D forums for MegaSquirt project are in a read-only mode - no new forum posts are accepted.
However the forums will remain available for view, they still contain a wealth of information on how MegaSquirt works, how it is installed and used. Feel free to search the forums for information, facts, and overview.While the R&D forum traffic has slowed in recent years, this is not at all a reflection of Megasquirt users, which continue to grow year after year. What has changed is that the method of MegaSquirt support today has rapidly moved to Facebook, this is where the vast majority of interaction is happening now. For those not on Facebook the msextra forums is another place for product support. Finally, for product selection assistance, all of the MegaSquirt vendors are there to help you select a system, along with all of the required pieces to make it complete.
Forum for discussing how to install MicroSquirt(TM), choose and troubleshoot sensors, wiring, and communications for MicroSquirt (TM) and MicroSquirt Module(TM).
Forum rules
Read the manual to see if your question is answered there before posting. If you have questions about MS1/Extra or MS2/Extra or other non-B&G code configuration or tuning, please post them at http://www.msextra.com The full forum rules are here: Forum Rules, be sure to read them all regularly.
Thanks dontz ,tommorow im gonna try what ewflyer said if i have it right, install diode option- to neg of coil, install 1k resistor to option+ and to a 12v source . it looks like on diagram he goes to +of coil but cdi puts out 200plus volts if im not mistaken, does this sound right. if it dosent work the hall sensors should be here in a couple days. THanks for the info.
He corrected himself later in that thread; EWFlyer is running a TCI system, with +12v upstream of the coil and the coil driver transistors grounding out the negative side. Your coils have the CDI upstream, but are wired directly to ground. The diodes & resistor arrangement won't work, as there's nothing to build up a voltage to detect - firing or off, the effective voltage at the reading point is zero (or Vf of the diodes).
Like I said - coil -ve triggering of a CDI is tricky. Try wiring OPTO+ to the positive side of the coil, see if the 250v+ pulse will trigger. Wire OPTO- to GND.
Hmmm ... I think a 200v zener (band to the coil) AND A 1K RESISTOR inline to the OPTO+ pin, followed by a 30v zener BRANCHING to ground. Someone a little more up on electronics needs to comment here ...
EDIT to correct the circuit, so as to not have uncontrolled current flow (briefly) through the Zeners.
Ok got my gear tooth hall sensor from diy auto and tired it on my long teeth off my fly wheel, still no signal, tried different setting and nothing. I have a 36-1 wheel getting laser cut should be here in a couple days, if i still cant get a signal, maybe i fried something . All i want is fuel so i just need a tach signal, This is a two cyl 800cc two stroke summit skidoo mountain sled which i turboed last year, it ran great whith carbs, but a bit of a pain to jet ,I run from 1500ft to 9000 ft and up to 15psi of boost , hope this 36-1 wheel works Hate to put carbs back on. Thanks Ps This is the 3.770 code , should i load a different code.
I am building a similar sled. 03 Polaris RMK Vertical Escape with a turbocharged 990cc twin. I originally piggybacked off the ignition pickup but it was a poor signal due to the long reluctor teeth. I installed a 36-1 wheel and DIY AutoTune threaded Hall (gear-tooth) Sensor, at 1.5mm air gap I did not really get a signal, at .5mm its not consistent but it runs, won't accelerate, shows sync errors, etc. I will be playing more with the gap tomorrow as its a 2 hour job to adjust it on my sled
I have a MS v.2905 software package and using TunerStudio to tune it. The crank sensor wired with 5a fused +12v to the red wire / Ground, black wire, and Pin 31 OptoIN- on the same ground circuit / and the Blue Wire going to pin 30 OptoIN+ on my MicroSquirt
After spending most of the day on it, I haven't made any progress and managed to destroy a starter rope.
I'm going to cut all but 2 teeth off the wheel (180 degrees apart and ~10 degrees BTDC) so that I can run the signal as a basic trigger.
Not sure if I got a junk sensor or what. I do have a similar Omron sensor, but its rated for a lower frequency. I know it will work with just 2 teeth.
I installed my 36-1 wheel and gear hall sensor from diy and about 1mm gap and instant tach signal, it works good. started to tune and the new turbo I installed blew a hole in the exhaust outlet, they installed bigger impeller and took to much meat off, should get new one friday and start tuning again. Does auto mixture control work as good as auto tune, can i set the seconds down to say 60 sec , then put it back up after. Thanks
What angle is the missing tooth at from TDC? I have tried it at ~30 and 90 degrees with no luck in either position. I believe I have an issue with the acceleration/deceleration of the crank making it difficult to determine the location of the missing tooth.