no engine speed during cranking

[evanevan]

Hello,

I searched but I haven't found others with my issue. I installed my us on a 02 R1. I've been working on and off for the last month trying to get a crank signal. I recaled the sensors and TPS and MAP read 5v. I am using coil on plug ignition with the Bosch 211 wired in and the jumpers added to VP291's on the ECU. When I crank with a stock motorcycle battery it loses voltage quickly with 6ga wire going to the starter and falls below 10v and loses all connection to us. The battery is grounded to the engine block. I took out my car battery and the voltage barely goes below 12V and it will reset the connection once in a while, but not nearly as often. I unplugged everything except the starter and the ignition switch and tried and I get the same situation. I am not sure what's drawing the current but the entire time I receive no engine speed signal (the gauge is red.)

I attached my .msq file that I am working with and a datalog of my cranking.

My ign. setup:
4cyl 1000cc stock injectors and coil on plug
8tooth crank wheel no cam signal
1 missing tooth (2 missing now)
3 teeth after missing tooth to skip before cyl1 TDC (or 0,1,2)


Any help is sincerely appreciated,

Evan

[Matt Cramer]

What sort of sensor is on the crank trigger, and how is it wired up?

[evanevan]

It's a VR sensor.

I have the signal wired to PIN32 VRIN+ and the ground shield going to PIN33 VRIN-

Thanks for the reply

[Matt Cramer]

I'd first make sure it's not wired backwards.

[evanevan]

checked the wiring and its right. I'm going to get a scope on the output signal..

[24c]

8tooth crank wheel no cam signal
1 missing tooth
3 teeth after missing tooth for cyl1 TDC (or 0,1,2)

Evan, do you have seven circular indents and a U shaped slots in the crank. The reason I ask, is that it sounds very similar to a FZR or YZF1000 Thunderace crank. The U shaped tooth is not a full missing tooth, and herein is your problem, but only if your crank looks like this.

Thunderace crank

DSCF0531.JPG (71.52 KiB) Viewed 2237 times

[evanevan]

Thanks man for the post. I'm not sure what the crank balancer looks like on the engine (am I missing something, how does it apply to the VR sensor?) The crank sensor on my r6 has an 8 tooth wheel for cylinder position and a camshaft sensor for the TDC trigger. I am only using the 8 tooth crank wheel and ground off one tooth for the trigger.

This isn't exactly my 8 tooth wheel rather a 12 tooth with on missing:

[24c]

The crank sensor on my r6 has an 8 tooth wheel for cylinder position and a camshaft sensor for the TDC trigger.

OK, so you have a "true" 8-1 crank trigger... no worries. You don't need to use the cam sensor, as you can run wasted spark, but you have to use an ignition driver to switch the pairs of R6 plug coils, like I have done.

GTS1000COPs.jpg

GTS1000 with R6 Coil On Plugs and ignition driver

(82.32 KiB) Not downloaded yet

[evanevan]

Yes, I'm using the Bosch 211 igniter to fire my coil on plugs.

So I finally got a scope trace... I found that the 1 missing tooth was not apparent enough for a distinct missing tooth signal so I grinded off another. Below is the scope trace of my 8-2 wheel, 6 pulses 2 missing.
Each pulse has quite a bit variance from the next.



I also added a current probe trace of my #2 ign coil to the second trace. It only fired 3 times before I lost my cranking rpm. Engine speed comes on and off briefly.

Does anyone know why the rpm cuts out? It also looks like the ign pulse drifts to be more retarded in each firing???



I attached my .msq file below.

I am running the following ign settings.

[evanevan]

When I crank with a stock motorcycle battery it loses voltage quickly with 6ga wire going to the starter and falls below 10v and loses all connection to us. The battery is grounded to the engine block. I took out my car battery and the voltage barely goes below 12V and it will reset the connection once in a while, but not nearly as often. I unplugged everything except the starter and the ignition switch and tried and I get the same situation. I am not sure what's drawing the current but the entire time I receive no engine speed signal.

I figured the low voltage com issue was from my cheapo DB9-USB converter from Fry's. I used another one from Radioshack and it doesn't lose connection after cranking now.

But I still need help with my cranking speed sync