The MegaSquirt Project has experienced explosive growth other the years, with hundreds of new MS installations occurring every week - a phenomenal success! MegaSquirt has been successfully used in all aspects of Internal Combustion engine applications including R&D, Industry, Race, and Research. The MS project has transformed itself from a simple R&D project into a full-featured mature engine control system. To reflect this the support structure has also changed to meet the needs of MegaSquirt Users.
Moving forward, the R&D forums for MegaSquirt project are in a read-only mode - no new forum posts are accepted.
However the forums will remain available for view, they still contain a wealth of information on how MegaSquirt works, how it is installed and used. Feel free to search the forums for information, facts, and overview.While the R&D forum traffic has slowed in recent years, this is not at all a reflection of Megasquirt users, which continue to grow year after year. What has changed is that the method of MegaSquirt support today has rapidly moved to Facebook, this is where the vast majority of interaction is happening now. For those not on Facebook the msextra forums is another place for product support. Finally, for product selection assistance, all of the MegaSquirt vendors are there to help you select a system, along with all of the required pieces to make it complete.
This forum is for discussing ignition setup, tuning, and troubleshooting for MicroSquirt (TM)
Forum rules
Read the manual to see if your question is answered there before posting. If you have questions about MS1/Extra or MS2/Extra or other non-B&G code configuration or tuning, please post them at http://www.msextra.com The full forum rules are here: Forum Rules, be sure to read them all regularly.
Ok im starting to get it, but you said to set to -4 degrees thats not anough offset for 11,500 rpm right ? Im having issue with my crank trigger now this happened a couple of days ago and I reloaded the firmware and its been fine. I reloaded it 3 times today and nothing. Im running a VR sensor from a place called sensoronix it was custom made to fit my cases anyhow I checked the air gap several times and its good or could the sensor be wired backwards.
Im pretty sure its wired right i mean the two wires are red and white red would be positive correct ? Im also running the latest code.
It would just lose crank reference. I went back and loaded my original program from the first time I got it to start and it started working again. But it lost it again.normally when I kick it the fuel pump runs but it keeps losing crank signal then when I kick it the fuel pump doent run.
Ok after another 8 hours today,I think i understand the ignition end of it now.II lost crank signal today and threw everything but the kitchen sink at it.I reloaded the latest code and the only thing i set was ECU type. Then I would kick it over the fuel pump would come on which would mean its getting s crank signal right? then i set my required fuel and my other injector settings and again I kick it over and the fuel pump would run. I now go to the ignition page and set everything Im still good but as soon as I change anything in advanced fuel options I lose crank sensor now. I've got four more days to figure this out. I think I will sacrifice a small chicken tonight. so if you want to save a chicken please help.
195suz wrote:Im pretty sure its wired right i mean the two wires are red and white red would be positive correct ? Im also running the latest code.
You cannot assume red is positive on any of these sensors. If you cannot get sync, or while cranking sync comes and goes, then I would try reversing sensor leads....
Not sure if your problem is.. can you get the engine running and it loses RPM at a high value? Or does it just not start at all?
See the sticky I posted about high RPM dropouts with the diode fix in the main forum section - this only applies to high RPMs or hot restart, it does not prevent low RPM starting.
Thanks Bruce i will try switching the wires on the VR sensor tomorrow.Ive had it running but not very good and not over 2000 RPM and its very rich.Just when I thought i was getting a hold on the system it seemed like #2 injector stopped working I changed out the set and it has'nt run since. i dot understand how can microsquirt read the trigger wheel before I set it or is that because its wired backwards BTW I am using a usb to serial adapter are there any known problems with this set up.
Ok I switched the VR sensor leads I now have good crank signal and was able to change it to falling edge but would still only run on #1 cylinder . old guy told me to set offset for output 2 to 180 degrees Ifound if i set it 0 #2 cylider started to fire but shortly after that lost #1 Ive included an msq for review . Im thankful for any help.
Well another day on the salt,got it running pretty good on 1 cylinder then i ran across a kid who does injection mapping and stuff. He looked at it and said my solid core spark splug wires where causing the problem and after that it stoped running all together , I read the instructions that came with my VR sensor and it said something about a 100K resistor being put btween the two leads. Well believe it or not I was able to find some supression plug wires today and a 95K resistor so I guess I'll try that Friday .Please feel free to join in at anytime I've got 2 and half days left to figure this out .
Thanks
Lewis
What are the ignition settings that you used to get it working? The idea of tis forum is to help other people. When you solve a problem you need to explain what you did to get it working in case someone else had the same problem. If you have your ignition problems figured out , you might get more replies about your running rich problem if you post it in th appropriate forum. Glad to hear you finally got it running.
As a side note you might want to try some resistor plugs and plug caps to eliminate some of your RF problems.