MicroSquirt.com read only forum (Jan.15,2018)

Actually, my datalogs show that the rpm stays pretty smooth, even where I'd expect it to be jumpy and weird. In that 3000-4000rpm range where it was bucking, the dash tach would bounce a good bit, but the datalogs don't show it at all. The only thing that's weird in my datalogs is my CLT has a lot ...

try a trigger angle of 68 degrees. I'm still not convinced that's exactly right yet, but it should at least run at that angle.

I believe so!

Mine came with one output set to 0-5V already, I believe it's 10:1 at 0V and 20:1 at 5V

what would one-offs cost? Can you do mild steel as well?

I understand that moving the trigger angle moves the table, problem is that I don't really fully understand where my ignition SHOULD be.

Does the hanging rpm indicate too far advanced or too far retarded?

I've been battling this horrible problem where the car jerks and bucks between 3000rpm and ...

I've been screwing around with the timing a lot lately, trying to get it to run right...

Now, for whatever reason, when I take my foot off the gas, the engine tends to stay near the same RPM and drop very slowly, not quickly and smoothly like I'd expect. Is this timing related? It seems like it ...

well, I can't seem to attach my logs because I've hit a quota

How can I clear out my previous attachments?

ok, so I made another run. I made two logs, one burst, one normal. Both times I made a couple long slow pulls to >6000rpm staying under 100kpa, and every time it'd have a tendency to buck at certain rpms. AFRs seem to look pretty good throughout, timing is not extravagant--it plateaus around 30 ...

Well, I played with it a bit more last night, ended up changing my trigger angle from 78 to 68, I noticed that reducing the trigger angle made the idle smoother. At 68, the timing light values match much better.

I dropped my maps down a good bit so that I'm only getting around 30 degrees of timing ...