MicroSquirt.com read only forum (Jan.15,2018)

lets say i buy a chunk of fuel rail stock...i have no problem tapping the ends for AN fittings, but im wondering how it can be done for the injector ports. I've seen some people tap w/ pipe to barb fittings then run a chunk of hose to the injectors secured w/ clamps. I was lookin for something a bit more secure and more proffesional looking. Im wondering if anyone has been able to tap the inside of the rail to accept injectors that seal w/ oem O-rings or something of that nature...or if anyone has any other good ideas. And if u have pics it would help a bunch...

THnx

Munkee wrote:

> Im wondering if anyone has been able to tap the inside of the rail to accept injectors that seal w/ oem O-rings or something of that nature...

I drill a 10 mm through hole, ream it to appropriate depth with a 13.5 mm
reamer, chamfer it about 1.5 mm with a 40-45 degree countersink, then
give it a little more bellmouth with a 15 degree countersink.

Here are some pictures:

http://not2fast.com/audi/5ktqa/ms-2004/ericPics/

Eric's plan sounds right. And since it works for him, I imagine it'll work for you.

You can also rent a tool to machine injector detail in one fell swoop from http://www.kinsler.com

(I'm a lazy when I'm being a machinist, and have little confidence in my ability to center 3 times per hole without making the compound errors exceed my specs. )

Greg

porschespeed wrote:

> You can also rent a tool to machine injector detail in one fell swoop from http://www.kinsler.com

I'd love to have one of those tools... For the ones we did for Keith's
car, we made them about 4 mm deeper than I suspect the all-in-one
tools will make (we wanted to keep the rail height as low as possible),
so it's always nice to also have the drill/reamer/countersink bits...

--
Eric Fahlgren http://www.not2fast.com/

i dont see a tool like that on there...maybe im just not lookin hard enough...

Thnx for the tips guys ;)

On Tue, September 28, 2004 1:10 am, Munkee wrote:i dont see a tool like that on there...

<http://kinsler.com/Cat_31_Web_HTMLs/020 ... een53.html>

--
Eric Fahlgren http://www.not2fast.com/

eric at wryday.com wrote:Munkee wrote:

> Im wondering if anyone has been able to tap the inside of the rail to accept injectors that seal w/ oem O-rings or something of that nature...

I drill a 10 mm through hole, ream it to appropriate depth with a 13.5 mm
reamer, chamfer it about 1.5 mm with a 40-45 degree countersink, then
give it a little more bellmouth with a 15 degree countersink.

Here are some pictures:

<http://not2fast.com/audi/5ktqa/ms-2004/>

--
Eric Fahlgren http://www.not2fast.com/

Killer. Absolutely beautiful. That is so much cleaner than what I had in mind. Eric, you are a genius.

-Brian

ah, i see now...thnx

also, this is mostly just detail, but im confused a bit since im not at all an expert in metal working and machining:

the rail extrusions i've found, some say billet aluminum, and some just say rail extrusions. Now to my understanding an aluminum billet is just a solid chunk of aluminum before being machined into something. So, would any rail extrusions, say like these be considered "billet aluminum rails"?

also, is there any real diff between 6061 t6 aluminum, and the 6063 t6 used in the above rails?

THnx

Munkee wrote:

> the rail extrusions i've found, some say billet aluminum, and some just say rail extrusions. Now to my understanding an aluminum billet is just a solid chunk of aluminum before being machined into something. So, would any rail extrusions, say like these be considered "billet aluminum rails"?

It's just a misuse of the language to call them "billet", they're all
extrusions. That rail from Tom Ross is exactly what we used on Keith's
car.

> also, is there any real diff between 6061 t6 aluminum, and the 6063 t6 used in the above rails?

Not unless you engineer the rail to be a structural member. You
could probably make one out of lead and have it work fine, as long as
you didn't mind the weight.

--
Eric Fahlgren http://www.not2fast.com/

Munkee wrote: also, is there any real diff between 6061 t6 aluminum, and the 6063 t6 used in the above rails?

Note to others: I'm not an expert on this so correct any errors, please.

Not much (for us.) 6063 has a little less alloying agents (more nearly pure Al.) The T number is the state of temper. For all your metal (and some polymer) questions turn to http://www.matweb.com.

More specifically: 6061-T6
and 6063-T6


Bored yet? An explanation of how they got the numbers: here and a longer description here and finally some Al datasheets on mechanical properties, physical properties, density, and tensile strength.


HTH,
Keith