The MegaSquirt Project has experienced explosive growth other the years, with hundreds of new MS installations occurring every week - a phenomenal success! MegaSquirt has been successfully used in all aspects of Internal Combustion engine applications including R&D, Industry, Race, and Research. The MS project has transformed itself from a simple R&D project into a full-featured mature engine control system. To reflect this the support structure has also changed to meet the needs of MegaSquirt Users.
Moving forward, the R&D forums for MegaSquirt project are in a read-only mode - no new forum posts are accepted.
However the forums will remain available for view, they still contain a wealth of information on how MegaSquirt works, how it is installed and used. Feel free to search the forums for information, facts, and overview.While the R&D forum traffic has slowed in recent years, this is not at all a reflection of Megasquirt users, which continue to grow year after year. What has changed is that the method of MegaSquirt support today has rapidly moved to Facebook, this is where the vast majority of interaction is happening now. For those not on Facebook the msextra forums is another place for product support. Finally, for product selection assistance, all of the MegaSquirt vendors are there to help you select a system, along with all of the required pieces to make it complete.
Forum rules
Forum rules
Read the manual to see if your question is answered there before posting. If you have questions about MS1/Extra or MS2/Extra or other non-B&G code configuration or tuning, please post them at http://www.msextra.com The full forum rules are here: Forum Rules, be sure to read them all regularly.
So we have a CBR600RR running Microsquirt for an FSAE car. It has a gt12 turbo and is running E85 fuel. We have a GM type 3 bar map sensor and an innovate wide band and used it to help with the autotune feature.We had a horrible time getting it to run right with the factory COP setup so we stuck LS1 coils on it and it is much better. It will start and run ok but the two main probs we have are as follows;
It doesn't want to idle below 2000rpm. We do have some custom bigger cams in it so I expected it to be a little finicky but it basically shuts off if you get it below 2k. We are just running the throttle blade - no idle air motor. I tried varying the injector pwm from 45 to 90 with very little difference in quality.
The main problem is it won't rev above 5700rpm. I've tried a number of things and it just acts like a rev limiter there. Attached is the latest msq and a datalog where you can see me slowly revving it up and see it just freak out at 5700.
If you look at the trigger +/- column you will see it count down a little bit when starting, which is not unusual, but after it starts it is stable and reliable. When it reaches near 5700 rpm it starts to count down very fast. This means it is missing tooth pulses. This is unusual as on this engine it usually sees extra pulses at high speed because the signal gets stronger the faster the wheel turns, unless you have a Hall sensor instead of the more common VR sensor. What you don't want to do is change configuration parameters. This engine will rev easily to well over 10000 rpm, but you need to fix the missing tooth problem. Problems with tooth detection is probably the most common problem that people have. There are many posts dealing with these problems and with the CBR engine in particular. I would do a search on these to see what people have tried in the way of adding/ reducing resistors, diodes, etc.
I haven't been able to find much else out there about these engines losing signal as we've seen. Do you think it would be beneficial to do something like run the vr through a 4 pin HEI and then to the mS?
Also, I was thinking about it and the way our car is set up, it has a trigger offset of 13 degrees I think which is actualy off and should be at around 1-3 but as I start moving it any closer to that that timing at the light gets way off. If I move the offset the other direction it is linear with ignition timing though. It seems like anything closer than an offset of 11-12 degrees and the actual timing advances something like 20-30 degrees. I have tried using a -355 offset and the thing doesnt even want to try to start.