FIdle won't shut off

[tech3sandcars]

Can someone look at this MSQ and see why my FIdle won't shut off. It shows on the screen that it is on (Tunerstudio) even though its past my setting, I know the valve works, I pull the relay on the relay board and it shuts off so I know it is functioning. I think I have the settings right but need another eye.

Also my VE table ranges from 60's to the 100's, is that good enough resolution or should I adjust ReqFuel and move the table up by 40 or so to get better resolution? It seems to run good just trying to fine tune a little more.

thanks

[grippo]

The logic for this is about as simple as it gets and you have set the proper idle control option. It should shut off when coolant goes above 150 deg F. Does the coolant temp in TS get over this -it doesn't matter what the dash gauge says because the processor doesn't know about that. It may be you need to calibrate the coolant sensor. When you say TS says the fidle is still on - what do you mean. I don't know how it can have that info ?

If VE only tops off near 100 then you have plenty of headroom - I would not change Refuel.

[tech3sandcars]

Thanks, ya sorry it says "Port 0" is on at the bottom right of the screen, it does not go off when the coolant sensor gets above the 150deg. The coolant sensor guage in TS goes up to 190 so I know its working. My Fidle valve is wired to the relay board. one side of the valve is grounded and the other is on the FIdle terminal. I then moved the jumper on the relay board to supply +12v when on. If I unplug the relay the FIdle shuts off so I'm thinking wiring is OK. For some reason Micro is not shutting off port 0.

As to the othe VE question, is it good enough resolution if I am running between 60 and 100 in my VE table? or should I bump the whole table to say run between 100 and 140 and adjust my Reqfuel accordingly?

[grippo]

The port status you see is only valid for the pins when they are used as spare ports - your fidle is a dedicated pin so the readback is meaningless. Can you tell by a meter or looking at the solenoid whether it is really on or not ?

The VE has 1% resolution no matter what range it is in. Some people claim they need more than this. This is only likely to be true at idle with oversize injectors. If this is a problem you might need to use extra code which has 0.1% resolution. But i would want VE to reflect what it really is.

[tech3sandcars]

Thanks again, I think it was working at one time, but not sure. I am using a vacuum type solenoid off A suby motor, used them before on a few megasquirt projects and seem to work pretty good as a Fidle. I have one side of the solenoid grounded and the other side tied to the relay board FIdle terminal. Since I am triggereing the solenoid with 12v I changed the jumper on the board for positive action. Its easy to hear when the solenoid is open cause you hear the vacuum leak. If I unplug the relay the solenoid closes and the idle drops about 200 rpm, so I know the relay is fine, I even swapped with another relay on the board to make sure they were fine. I unplugged the relay and metered the coil terminals in the socket, one side is 12v and the other appears grounded which tells me the ecu has it on. Do you think the ecu fidle output has failed to a grouded state?

I'll dig into it a bunch more tonight, make sure I've covered everything.

[grippo]

Do you think the ecu fidle output has failed to a grouded state?

That is a possibility. Check the voltage on U8 (IPS022G) pin 4, which is direct from the processor. From the code this should be high when fidle is on and should go low after clt is hot, If that is the case then the sw is doing what it should. So the next step would be to check that you have hooked up everything per the Manua, then check what comes out of U8 (pin 5) and see if it matches what the data sheet for this part says it should be. (I am assuming you have the green board version of microsquirt - I don't remember if this changed the fidle circuit - but I doubt it.

[tech3sandcars]

will do, thanks