MicroSquirt.com read only forum (Jan.15,2018)

Ok I have a MSII V3 board and im running 2.3XX
Vehicle is a 93 escort 1.8l turbo. 360cc injectors. (est 200hp and 175tq?)

anyways my prob is the car is very tough to get started. i would say usually it takes around 7 tries to get it to start...i have tried to adjust the ve table thinking its running to lean but im at a loss...if someone who knows more then me could just simply look over this msq and please tell me if i missed something obvious i would appreciate that...keep in mind that once its running its running good...just getting it running is obviously the problem...thanks all in advance.

laruei,

To solve starting problems, you should be looking at the cranking pulse widths, the aftertstart enrichment, and the warm-up enrichments, not the VE table. There's more here: http://www.megamanual.com/v22manual/mtune.htm#csenrich

Lance.

ok now that the starting is easier...i have a spark knock...im assuming its a spark knock...now im gonna tell ya i have 10:1 compression and im running around 10 lbs...so with that in mind where in the spark map should i drop some timing? im assuming again here thats where i would do it to get this problem to go away besides running race gas...which is not an option...thanks

laruei wrote:...im assuming its a spark knock...

Don't assume anything unless you are independently wealthy or have a warehouse of engines to experiment on. A good understanding of what's going on in your engine is vital to a good boosted tune.

laruei wrote:...now im gonna tell ya i have 10:1 compression and im running around 10 lbs...

Ouch. I can be done but you're on a very ragged edge for a daily street car on average pump gas - assuming it's a stock 1.9L NA base - but it can be done!

laruei wrote:...so with that in mind where in the spark map should i drop some timing?...

Well, the part of the map where it's knocking would be likely. Seriously, pre-ignition or detonation knock (if that's what it is) can be caused by many things including AFR, spark plug heat range, charge temperature, charge atomization, chamber temp, turbulence, 'squish' area, fuel grade, piston-to-head clearance, ignition timing, cam timing, crossfiring, hotspots, etc.

If you can't get someone familiar with this type of tuning to help you hands-on, I'd suggest doing it the way most racers do - NA first. Wire your wastegate open so you get no boost and do a full tune on it for drivability and efficiency. Cold starts, accel enrichments, the works. Once that is set and running sweet along with checking all the parameters listed above, gradually add the boost back in.

If you do all this in a logical and deliberate order - you'll get the best results in the least time. It sounds slower but is really faster because you don't have to chase the changing conditions around and adjust it forever trying to zero in. Once you get the base solid the boost part is then easy and you'll know better what your engine will need to handle it.

Hope that helps,
David