MicroSquirt.com read only forum (Jan.15,2018)

Ok heres my story running a MSII V3 with 2.3 firmware...please dont flame too hard

Basically i just put my turbo setup in (1.8l DOHC, 10:1 comp {hoping to get 10psi when all is said an done}, hall affect disty, 360cc injectors, jdm mazda turbo [vj20] and manifold, and a lc-1 wb o2)and i dont have a spark map to start with, im not sure how much timing to take out when in boost, havent got the car running and basically im pretty noob about this...i have read over the tunning your megasquirt but i dont want to fry anything by not having the right timing setup...and by timing i mean spark map...i tried starting it and it fired off after a couple cranks but ran like it was either out of time or the injectors were firing off...but it ran which means i have fuel spark and air...so there no prob with that stuff...

although on a diff subject the lc-1 shows 10 afr when megatune is first started with ms on and then (heats up the element i assume?) and pegs out the gauge in megatune...is this normal? i have setup the ego and the voltage specs to what i know them to be when i hooked the lc-1 to my laptop and checked them...also i have the wideband signal wire going to the ms and the narrow band signal wire going to a af ratio gauge and the gauge is not working but that may be a sep issue...i have done a free air calibration and the led blinks like it should then is solid as it should be...so i assume its working and wired correctly...

also the coolant temp sensor is a stock mazda non-gm unit...i have the resistance and corrosponding temp numbers for it and pluged them in the calibrate tool and its only around 3 to 4 degree away from the iat (which is a stock gm piece so i assume no cali is needed) is this normal and ok? or should i tweak it to get them identical...

in closing please if anyone has a ve, spark and afr table for a 323 gtx, protege bp turbo or escort 1.8 turbo i can get the car at least running with i think after that i should be able to run with it...thanks all in advance

btw page 5 is some of the newest pics

http://www.feoa.net/modules.php?name=Fo ... c&start=60

do you have the ability of not using the MS to control spark, and just fuel? That will eliminate soem problems for right now, that way you can tune all your fuel and then setup spark seperatly.
-teb

10psi into a 10:1 CR engine is pushing it isn't it?
 
Eliot.

Posted by email.

first question: yes i could but at some point i would be back to where i am now right? but still a viable option

second: yes sir it is but with good tunning it should be ok...thats why i got the best ;)

Haha nice job! i thought ive seen it all till now,., being a owner of a PINK! 95 ford escort (1.9 littler monster!) and all the fun ive had in that, i dont see the purpose of a 10:1 ratio motor with a turbo..... all i can say is have fun!!! ... some of my own expeirence with my turboed bimmer , i might be able shed some light for yeah!...

first off !!! double tripple check ur LC1 is free air calibrated out of the exhaust!

second make sure u have a 400 ish ohm resistor inline with the output of the LC1 to the megasquirt....

then in megatune calibrate ur AFR reading make sure it reflects the reading out the LC1 log works program, way i did this was is get two serial ports running (two USB-Serial adapters) and run both programs at same time, i notice that my uper AFR reading 23.35 was really 23.00 to make them both read same.... u might have play with this get it dead on nuts but few 10ths of a reading isnt bad for starting out....

second u gota make sure ur timing is somewhere "ideal" for it at laest idle and cruise around, i notice my motor likes run around 16~18 degrees, get that timing light out and check it make sure!! i really recommend switching over to something eles rather then a dizzy, we arent in the 1900's anymore, get something like the EDIS (sence u got a ford, and EDIS is my favorite choice .... im sure shouldnt be that hard to adapat but then u know ur timing is right on and always accurate...

once u get those taken care of then id move on to tuning ur fuel map, for a base spark map for ur turbo setup id probley wouldnt go higher the 36 or so degrees of advance when curiseing and mild wide open (100~130 kpa) for that.... once u start getng the higher boost id slow come down to mid 20's for timing to make sure ur not gonna hurt anything, thats how i started tuning my bimmer.... i found out later i can run 24 degrres at 18 psi and anything below 10 psi i can do 36 degrees ( still gota play with it get me more power but it acts as a safty net!

but back the fuel map just keep her around 14ish AFR as much as possbile, when cruiseing and idleing, once u get on it a little bit watch ur LC1 make sure ur not leaning out, i found the base fuel map works dam good that comes with MS code, i only had adjust few things and most the tuning was for the boost part!....

over all just do a step at a time! from looking over ur post and photos thats a lot of "upgrades" to do at one time! ill admint ive found my self st uck in situwations because i had to many things going on, but i dont see why u should run anything problematic really... except that u drive a ford heheh

Sean...

wow man thanks for the info...um im gonna sound like a complete noob here and say...im not sure how to do that...ill elaborate...

the lc-1 i know for a fact IS free air calibrated...i did it twice maybe three times when it was out...ok and this 400 ohm resistor? are you talking about inside the MS cause i bought it assembeled and he asked me if i was using the LC-1 (his name was matt fulghum im sure you prob know who he is)...so i assume he put the correct resistor in it? before i go to much farther into it...i originally went into the lc-1 prog and made sure that the voltages on the second output, going to the ms, went from 0 to 5v so i then went into megatune config and selected the lc-1 0-5v and under the ego settings i put what i knew in there...which was not much...basically single narrow band and i didnt know what the other ones were for so i didnt change them...

i have enclosed a log from when i got it started today...i wired in the stock ecu for spark and did the ve generator and afr generator...(i used something like 170ftlbs @ 3500 and 180 hp @ 6200, idle at 900 and redline at 7200 i dont know what the map rending @ those should be...i assume it would be higher then 100kpa at the higher rpms cause of boost but i dont know if it would be like 150? is that 10 psi? please advise on that one...) feel retarded

BUT it does fire right up first try...idles eh....ok little sumpble everyonce in a while but everything seems to sound ok and no leaks BUT my thing is this o2 sensor reading IF thats correct then its running VERY lean correct? how would i richen that up...or should i make sure the sensor is reading right first? i suppose i will do that after i get done here...

ok next the dist...not changing it...sorry..im not that into changing more stuff right now later on maybe...but i know it ran when i pulled it apart so i wont to work with this stuff though it may be a POS system...but ill keep you in mind for when i get ready to change over... on that note ill be honest i dont know what the timing is...prob should check that but dont i need the idle to be lower to check that timing and on my car it has a shunt plug and since the stock computer is controlling the spark do i go by the book to check timing? i dynoed my car NA and it was running VERY lean maybe the base timing is way too high and thats why...hmmill check that out...but how do i change the timing in the ms? will i need to yet since the stock ecu is controlling the spark?

and again im sorry to say but when you say i need to have a timing advance or retard at a certain rpm how would i change that...?

and lastly...i think, im gonna assume that the lc-1 program should read its own sensor right? so if i check it and it reads diff then the MT what should i be looking at changing?

wow sorry guys i know you prob get noobies like me all the time but i very willing to learn just steer me in the right directions and ill try and take over from there...thanks in advance and feel free to give input on the spread sheet...im sure something wrong in there though i wouldnt know it...thanks again

oh and i forgot to tell you guys about the whole 10:1 thing...ok this is a pretty new motor has maybe 10k on it i rebuilt it wanting to go NA to see how much power i could get i threw in some reinforcements in the block and little things like the 10:1 full floaters...but it didnt get me what i wanted so when the money came around i went Turbo...if this motor blows...well that sucks but i have the complete motor i took out of the car with 8.5 or 8.6:1 and the only thing wrong with it was the head...burning oil...had great compression 170 or 180 across the board..so thats why...im not just looking for a challenge but i have heard i will be the first guy on the forums i go to, to do this...well see, fingers crossed..thanks

well make sure the LC1 is working right u can compare what megatune reads and what logworks reads....

hears how i set mine up.

in logworks i made 0 volts 7.35? (lowest it will let u i forget) and 5 volts 22.35 (think thats the highest) reason be i like have full "specturm" of O2 readings.... 10~20 works fine! ... so once u know EXACTLY what the LC1 is outputing on its angloug channel then u can move on to megatune..

i notice that they give u a list of "default" settings to calibrate the afr table, i usealy just do the bottom "custom" one where it lets u input the 0~5 and afr readings... so "technicaly" u would make ur 0 volts same as LC1 and 5 volts same to!..... only difference is sence theres line noise, resistance, etc... the reading willl be off a but hair! but u should be within the real AFR reading of LC1, like i said mine was off by like few 10ths of a reading, at first i thought it was way off but was anther problem ....

this should be first thing you setup make sure ur o2 readings are accurate or ur tuning in the dark so to speek...

as for ur stock ignition thats fine! letting the stock ecu control it is a good idea i was under the imprestion u were useing the MS to control it, i have no experience with dizzy's and MS as of yet... heh... once i got my EDIS working i just left it at that... but it is probley better for you to tune fuel before u move on to tuning the timing... u said u didnt know if the timing was where it should be? its probley close enough to say if u were running car before with no ignition problems.... the only real problem will be once u start tuning and turing up the boost sence the stock ecu dosent know what to do....

that brings me to something eles i just thought of... if ur useing the stock ECU control ignition it needs to know the "load" of engine, hence a MAP or MAF single to it.... i know on my 1.9 it uses the standered ford MAF to get load, on 1.8's i forget which it used.... so that might lead into its own problem if you bypassed it or still useing the MAF if it has one??

tuning the fuel is next part if all seems be going smoothly and u can see ur AFR readings etc....

you asked how to tune the fuel? eek id read the megasquirt manuel few times if ur getting little stuck on how tune the fuel, personly i would stay clear of the built in generators, ive never had luck with those and from my own experience that generates a "ucked up map anyhow.. i would use the stock fuel map that came with the MS, this gets u in the "ball park" i had my doubts at first but sure drove fine around town get me muffler shop and back before i had chance to tune anything

before tuning the fuel ur going want to setup the Bins for the RPM and KPA readings of ur engine..... hence goto the Table-VE MAP in megatune and on the bins that appear on furthest left and most bottom are the kpa/rpm bins. id recommend start with 500 rpm as ur lowest and figure what ur going to redline at (7000+?) and make that ur highest then porportionaly do the inbetween bins... and for the KPA bins perhaps do something like this 20,30,50,70,90,110,130,150,170,190,220..... at 220 kpa thats nearly 18 ish psi of boost! u can play around with this get it somewhere comforitable.... but for the cruise and idle id recommend starting with 20 ( cruiseing with no throttle) 30~40 (idle) 50~80 (cruiseing on highway) your going want tune those first!! dont get foot happy and do some wide open crap hehe with 3 blown headgaskets i tell u do a thing at a time!! unless u like do ing it over and over agian ....

also a quick way to tune the VE is to go under megatune, pull up the 3d VE map (tuning - ve map, not the table) and u can use the arrow keyes to navigate across the fuel map and go to certian kpa/rpm , then use the shift up and down keys to increase decrease the value, always do this is small steps, u can quickly lean out or flood motor if u dont give it time to seddle in....

dam i feel like im writeing a book!! but im just trying give you some sence of guidence, ive been in ur shows before!!! and i tell u as much fun and excitement something like this brings it can easly turn to disaster!! my bimmer motor i dumped easly 5 or so grand into as a fresh new motor with all the bells whitles.. at the get go i had the megasquirt controling fuel and spark!! sence this motor was equiped with a dizzy , it was a little wield getting the ignition to work right plus trying to tune fuel at same time and everything eles inbetween!!... where did that leave me? blown head, blown gasket, leaky motor and all that fun stuff!!! there sure was no one eles to blame but my self, its not fun doing it 3 times now ....

but heck whats point in doing it if u dont learn something and conquer ur problem!!!! happy boosting!

Sean....

wow thanks man...thats tons of info i can go tinker with and yes i need to get to a muffler shop i figure thats the first thing after getting it running right...or ok that is...so that i can stand the noise...

i just hooked the lc-1 to the l top and the ms to the l top and they show diff readings...i show 10 at intial startup with the MT then after a few seconds it pops to 11.5 i show the whole time after intial warm up of the lc-1 9.7 SO....this means i change what? logworks? or megatune? obviously tunning is useless as you say if i cant get the right o2 readings and as far as the fuel map i mean i know how to change it im just not sure what to change it too...sorry if i sounded a little too noob there..

i have a video uploaded on a website...take a look...

http://vids.myspace.com/index.cfm?fusea ... 130629&n=2

ok so maybe im just chasing my tail...i think i need to see what i good afr and ve table looks like...i just went and changed one table at a time and i guess im going the wrong way cause the lc-1 wasnt showing the afr coming up it was going down so i changed it the other way and it was loading up with fuel...whats a good afr at idle? (mine is almost always at around 10 or a little under..) my idle at least which is for some reason at like 1100 - 1200? i need to start from the basics

oh and i changed the setting on the lc-1 it was very close to what you said it should be but when i go to calibrate afr in MT it wont let me change those boxes (after i select lc-1 0-5v in the drop down) and at 5 volts its showing 19.7 where as i specified the lc-1 to show 22.35...is there another place to input these numbers? i think that would fix why the lc-1 and mt are showing diff numbers...let me know thanks! oh and btw am i ok to drive this lightly of course to a muffler shop? or should i wait it out?