Not much! Looks like the v2.863 code came out yesterday which should read the rpm correct for an oddfire engine with a missing tooth cam wheel. Will start testing it today. I found a better way of doing the fan control circuit and want to do that all over again. Been spending some time trying to get PalmTune to talk to MS2/uS so I can tune the fuel and spark on the fly, not a lot happening as I still haven't come to grips with understanding the Visual Basic programming. The Palm can connect and upload data, but I'm not getting the VE table, yet, or if I am, it's not displaying properly. Dave's MS'd fuel-only Kawasaki (4cyl) had the stock ignition fail so I'll be helping him a bit to get MSnS-E controlling spark as well, that'll be the blind leading the blind! It was interesting, he bought a 12 tooth sprocket for 3/8" chain for a few bucks, ground a tooth off, and turned it up to fit straight onto the mounting for the OEM trigger. Then he turned the teeth down a bit to give flat tips on the teeth and make it fit in the available space. We ran it up on a hobby lathe with the OEM VR sensor and got a great signal at this stage on the scope. If it works well it at least gives some ideas for those doing oddfire twins.
If this new code works well, there will be few oddfire twins in the world that can't have MicroSquirt as an ignition and fuel controller, using a missing tooth wheel on the crank or cam. The uS still hasn't been released, but as far as I know all the hardware has been tested and sorted, so a production run can't be too far away.
Ian.
MS'ing 45 degree V-Twin
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Read the manual to see if your question is answered there before posting. If you have questions about MS1/Extra or MS2/Extra or other non-B&G code configuration or tuning, please post them at http://www.msextra.com The full forum rules are here: Forum Rules, be sure to read them all regularly.
Read the manual to see if your question is answered there before posting. If you have questions about MS1/Extra or MS2/Extra or other non-B&G code configuration or tuning, please post them at http://www.msextra.com The full forum rules are here: Forum Rules, be sure to read them all regularly.
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newtyres1
- Helpful Squirter
- Posts: 139
- Joined: Mon Feb 06, 2006 7:32 pm
- Location: Brisbane, Australia
The missing tooth tells MS the crank position. Without a missing tooth you need a 2nd trigger on the cam. You might be able to run non-wasted spark with a non-missing tooth crank wheel and a 2nd trigger, but I haven't looked into that to see if that is available. If you download the latest MS2/uS code and set up MT with the ini file you can see all the options.
With a missing tooth crank wheel and no 2nd trigger you have to run wasted spark since MS doesn't know what stroke you are on in the 720 degree engine cycle. Keep in mind this is not true or common wasted spark as it is normally used on car engines (or the older true wasted spark Harley engines), in this case with an oddfire V-twin and 2 ignition outputs and 2 coils, the coils are simply firing twice as often as needed.
With a missing tooth crank wheel and no 2nd trigger you have to run wasted spark since MS doesn't know what stroke you are on in the 720 degree engine cycle. Keep in mind this is not true or common wasted spark as it is normally used on car engines (or the older true wasted spark Harley engines), in this case with an oddfire V-twin and 2 ignition outputs and 2 coils, the coils are simply firing twice as often as needed.
It's doing pretty well. I'm tuning the fuel map and it is giving me some headaches there. Also, I think I blew the 2n2222 FP relay driver, so I'm going to have to take it apart and check. If Crap Shack has a NPN with a higher voltage rating in the same package, I'll try that, and I'll stick a zener across it too. I think the flyback spike from the relay cooked it, but it is a theory at this point. I'm just about ready to saran wrap a palm to my forearm for tuning. I've got to get this thing done this weekend. Next weekend it starts a 2K mile road trip.
Here's some pics:
The derived MS1 work (HD cigs are a collector item shown for size reference only and not to be construed as a smoking endorsement) with MAP Daddy Dual MAP and Opto:
My Buel TB (Mikuni, actually according to the stamp) to S&S Super air filter adapter made from the top of a 22R piston (when you have a lathe, the whole world looks like a problem in roundness):
Backing plate mounted:
Bike completed. I just painted it also. I did the color and clear, my wife did the art. Looks like a giant turquoise rock:
Note eBay sourced adjustable FPR, fuel filter used as a surge pot, fuel return line T'ed in between the filter and the petcock. Fuel pump is the Polaris Victory sourced pump. The one I bought on eBay was bad, of course, so I had to buy a new one from the local Polaris dealer. Initial current drain looked to be 2.5 amps, but it is drawing 4.5 now. Not sure why, but that's within the current specs on the pump for pumping against a load. I wish I had a lower current drain on the pump, but that's what I would up with.
Here's some pics:
The derived MS1 work (HD cigs are a collector item shown for size reference only and not to be construed as a smoking endorsement) with MAP Daddy Dual MAP and Opto:
My Buel TB (Mikuni, actually according to the stamp) to S&S Super air filter adapter made from the top of a 22R piston (when you have a lathe, the whole world looks like a problem in roundness):
Backing plate mounted:
Bike completed. I just painted it also. I did the color and clear, my wife did the art. Looks like a giant turquoise rock:
Note eBay sourced adjustable FPR, fuel filter used as a surge pot, fuel return line T'ed in between the filter and the petcock. Fuel pump is the Polaris Victory sourced pump. The one I bought on eBay was bad, of course, so I had to buy a new one from the local Polaris dealer. Initial current drain looked to be 2.5 amps, but it is drawing 4.5 now. Not sure why, but that's within the current specs on the pump for pumping against a load. I wish I had a lower current drain on the pump, but that's what I would up with.
Yeah, starts and runs. I've put about 500 miles on it total. I put about 30 miles on it yesterday in AutoTune to get it dialed in a bit closer after moving the VE buckets around some to closer balance out the changes. I'm going to pull it apart today and fix the fuel pump driver. I also noticed the fuel pressure had crept up to 46, so I dropped that back to 42, and the pump sounded like it was under a lot less strain. I bought a 1 ohm 10W resistor at crap shack. I might experiment with that in line.
Well, we put over 2K miles on it in about 10 days to Sturgis and back. doing 300-450 miles/day. I had dropped the fuel pressure down a bit to ease up on the pump load, changed out to a 35/35W headlight, changed the running lights to 5W instead of 8W and with all that, it would charge with the lights on. Had to scrape every amp I could get. 18A electrical system. The 1W resistor in series with the pump didn't work out. Got really hot and only dropped the current a little. Anyway, my wife hadn't ridden the bike since the conversion until it was time to hit the pavement on the way to Sturgis. She was happy. She said it was like an automatic transmission. Just put it in gear and go. No flat spots, sputtering, etc. and much better than any carb that's she had on it.
I had to fiddle with the fuel pressure regulator a time or two. I think I'll look around for a better one. I also did a little tweaking on the start parameters and got that better. Highway mileage was about the same as the last really good carb tune I had on it, mid 50's plus/minus wind. About the only issue I had with my install was that the pipe insulation I had covering the fuel pump shrunk some (from the heat?) and the assembly got loose in the bracket I made and slipped down, breaking the + connector connector to the fuel pump. I tightened up the bracket and put a new connector on and that was about it. Given the complexity of the install, I think that's pretty good. Just before we were going to leave, the 2n2222 I had as a fuel pump relay driver cooked, so I had to tear it all apart to replace that with a 2222something from crap shack suposedly rated at a higher voltage and about 17V of zeners across it. I think the flyback on the relay coil cooked the 2n2222. It did fine on the trip.
I had an exhaust leak on my bike, however, resulting in a bit on a delay in the middle of nowhere, SD for some quality time:
but, it was only a 2 day total delay with one day of that wrenchin'. The exhaust leak cooled the valve guide, which dropped down about 2mm, holding the valve open. Started working on it at 0830 and started the bike up at 2130 that night. The valve wasn't damaged (luckily as they are $45 each) so I just had the machine shop put a new guide in and lap the valve.
Besides the fight we almost got into with a bunch of Canadians at the campground, that was about it for adventure.
I had to fiddle with the fuel pressure regulator a time or two. I think I'll look around for a better one. I also did a little tweaking on the start parameters and got that better. Highway mileage was about the same as the last really good carb tune I had on it, mid 50's plus/minus wind. About the only issue I had with my install was that the pipe insulation I had covering the fuel pump shrunk some (from the heat?) and the assembly got loose in the bracket I made and slipped down, breaking the + connector connector to the fuel pump. I tightened up the bracket and put a new connector on and that was about it. Given the complexity of the install, I think that's pretty good. Just before we were going to leave, the 2n2222 I had as a fuel pump relay driver cooked, so I had to tear it all apart to replace that with a 2222something from crap shack suposedly rated at a higher voltage and about 17V of zeners across it. I think the flyback on the relay coil cooked the 2n2222. It did fine on the trip.
I had an exhaust leak on my bike, however, resulting in a bit on a delay in the middle of nowhere, SD for some quality time:
but, it was only a 2 day total delay with one day of that wrenchin'. The exhaust leak cooled the valve guide, which dropped down about 2mm, holding the valve open. Started working on it at 0830 and started the bike up at 2130 that night. The valve wasn't damaged (luckily as they are $45 each) so I just had the machine shop put a new guide in and lap the valve.
Besides the fight we almost got into with a bunch of Canadians at the campground, that was about it for adventure.