Cheap AFR meter

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Malachy
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Cheap AFR meter

Post by Malachy »

Cheap Afr Guage?
hi i have been toying with this idea with mad professor from here.
i have an LC-1 and want an afr guage, however my options are:
i can either spend a silly amount on an xd1 or spend alot less on some cheap budget guage that looks rubbish.
so we were chattingand came up with the idea of setting one of the LC-1 outputs to read
1v @10:1 afr
and
2v @ 20:1 afr
then wire in a Voltmeter that reads 1-2v
this would mean at 1.500V the Afr would be 15:1
etc
using something like this
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/DC-0-2V-50V-3-BLU ... dZViewItem
from ebay.
it should give me an accurate afr reading costs next to nothing and will look quite tidy sunk flush into the dashboard.

Any problems people can see?
feedback apreciated

edit: reading it again its not very clear however it seems you may be able to move the decimal place so 1.500v shows on screen as 15.00 which wouldbe a bonus!
jsmcortina
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Post by jsmcortina »

Sounds like a plan.

James
jakobsladderz
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Post by jakobsladderz »

you can get panel meters cheap that display 0-200 mv (so you'd use a resistor divider to drop your 1-2 volts to .1-.2 volts). you set a jumper to define the position of the decimal point so you could have it display 10.0-20.0.. They're about $9-$10 each or something.. Just be sure to get one that will measure relative to power ground, some of them have a common mode input that can't get within a volt or two of ground and would not work without a bipolar supply.
Exeter: (noun) the nut or bolt always left over after putting something back together (Douglas Adams, The meaning of Liff)
jakobsladderz
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Post by jakobsladderz »

Sorry, should've followed the link first... Looks like these may have the decimal point move feature supported using the dip switch somehow.. don't know about the input relative to ground thing for these particular displays but given the internal volt reg I'd say it will probably be OK..
Exeter: (noun) the nut or bolt always left over after putting something back together (Douglas Adams, The meaning of Liff)
Malachy
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Post by Malachy »

i recieved my lc1 today and i should begetting the panal meter in thenext 2-3 days so will keep this updated.
bluetrepidation
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Post by bluetrepidation »

Good idea. Though it may not be too accurate being that it sweeps only over 1 volt but for something you are reading manually how accurate do you need it? I bet it'll work great.

A.J.
1999 Saturn SC2 1.9L DOHC 4 cyl NA
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fscott
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Post by fscott »

That meter will work perfectly.

The nice thing about hte LC-1 is that you can calibrate the outputs. So even if the meter isn't accurate, you can make it accurate by adjusting the LC-1's output.

See this thread.
http://www.msefi.com/viewtopic.php?t=17314&highlight=

Fred
Tiny turbos kick butt!
Malachy
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Post by Malachy »

ok so i got the meter today and managed toget it displaying 15.40 @1.540 volts (aa battery)

Image


thats as far as my testing has got as my ms seems to still be stuck in uk customs :/

although for accuracy the voltmeter is adjustable and can be calibrated via a Pot on the back

i checked it versus my Dmm (which is a cheap one)
dmm= 1.544 volts
voltmeter = 1.540 volts

so not a huge difference
TPI 85 Blazer
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Post by TPI 85 Blazer »

I had thought of the same idea. It's easy with an LC-1. You just get any meter and figure out the relationship between input voltage and it's display. Then you reverse this and program it into the extra analog out on the LC-1.
Fastest95PGT
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Post by Fastest95PGT »

This is absolutely a great idea. I had thought of it earlier on when I got tired of using my NB Autometer gauge (already had it) and guessing the lights and their conversion to AFR at a glance.

I bought a XD-1 though because I can't multiply by 10 fast enough! :lol:
1995 Ford Probe GT ~ Megasquirted & Boosted
275whp/242wtq @ 5.5psi ---- 317whp/287wtq @ 8.5psi
^^^ (thanks to MSnS-E and dyno tuning by me!)
2003 GSX1300R (Hayabusa)
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